We welcome visits, conversations, questions and discussions. I do ask that you understand, there is just one of me to reply and at least as many of you as there are puppies. I average 10 inquiries for every puppy. With just one average litter of 6, that's 60 people. If I spend 5 minutes a day with each, that 5 hours I use that I cannot spend caring for dogs and puppies. That's not counting answering questions for those who already have a puppy, vet visits, cleaning, feeding, working with them and shows. Pictures can be very time consuming. Sometimes I can catch goods ones when you ask for more, but puppies sleep, ALOT, and catching them awake to get you those extra pictures is not always possible. Getting them to hold still long enough is another challenge. Videos, which are easier to get when they are awake, do not readily go thru text and email. I'm not ignoring your request for more and more. But the care of the pups is far more important than getting a few more pictures.
Because my main focus is conformation, I breed to the AKC standard for the border collie. Structure is critical for every activity to reduce the chances for injury in working, sports, or any activity. I do strive to maintain the herding instinct and to prepare puppies for any venue in their new homes. When a puppy is going to a home for show, search and rescue, service dog, performance or any number of specific homes, we may not be able to assign that puppy until 7 or 8 weeks old. I observe puppies closely and evaluate a number of ways to try and get the puppy that will fit your life style the best while also meeting aesthetician choices. However please note, I will not allow choices on visual appearances only. Tempetament and purpose is first.
I use PayPal for deposits. You do not have to have a PayPal account, just follow a link I send. Currently, I am not requiring a deposit to get on a waiting list (however, due to the number of people that say they definitely want one, then have found one when i get to them, i am considering a small fee to get on a waiting list) but once I know I have a puppy for you, a deposit of half the current price is required to hold it until it is ready to go at 8 weeks. On that paypal invoice, you will find the following:
It is critical that you read and understand the Puppy Basics on my website and agree to follow recommendations. This is the link.
Please have your puppy checked by your vet within 1 week of pick up. Should your vet find a life threatening congenital defect at that appointment, I will replace the pup or refund moneys paid for the puppy (no refund of transportation, food, toys, vet, cost, etc). All veterinary recomendation on vaccination schedule, parasite control (both internal and external), other health care issues including dietary, should be followed and documented. If you disagreed with a veterinary recommendations, I'm open to discussion as not all veterinarians follow current veteranarian colleges recommendations. Should your puppy need to be returned (or not picked up after deposit) for any other reason, every effort will be made to resale it. Any money receive from a resale up to the price you paid, minus $200, unrecovered PayPal fees and veterinary fees, will be returned when those funds are received. If those funds come in more than 60 days from this invoice date, paypal policy can no longer refund vendor fees of roughly 3% of this invoice and thus those will be subtracted from the refund. If this occurs 180 days from this date, purchaser must sign acknowledgement of a satisfied obligation as PayPal current policy no longer allows their system to be used to reverse moneys. Any other changes that occur in PayPal policy must also be applied at the time. I realize, making this investment is expensive to buyers, and efforts will be made to make a resale work and quickly. Puppies returned/remaining need additional vaccines, food, vet care etc plus it does become more difficult to sale as they age. Very few breeders offer a refund at all, but if I can make another sale, I will not keeps funds from both sales. Should your puppy die before 2 yr old due to a congenital disorder verified by your vet, I will replace the puppy when one of similar sex, color, breeding, etc, is available. If testing is reasonably available to assure a second puppy does not succumb to a similar disorder, steps will be taken to assure you do not have a heart breaking event occur twice, especial from the same defect. No show guarantee is expressed or implied however if you wish to show every effort will be made to provide a worthy pup. Other laws pertaining to the sale of puppies in Georgia or your state may also apply. Paying this invoice is acknowledgement that you have received, read and agree to abide by these policies.
This ends the invoice section.
Before breeding, the adult dogs are DNA tested and have hips OFA certified. If hips fail, the dog is not used. All males and some females also have elbows OFAd. To date, I've not had one fail elbows so I don't do everyone. All have at least CEA & MDR1 DNA tested. Most have fully clear DNA thru Canine Health Check (a subsidiary of Paw Prints Genetics) or Embark. I use Gensol diagnostics for individual DNA testing. If the dog carries one affected copy of a hereditary diseases, it may still be bred but done so to assure no puppies are affected by a preventable disease. When breeding a carrier, I DNA test the pups to assure buyers know who might carry and who is clear. None can be affected.
MDR1 is one of the few genes that can affect the dog even if just carried. It is multi drug resistivity. I think of it as multi drug reactivity as that is how it affects the dog. NO ONE IN MY KENNEL IS A MDR1 CARRIER, ALL ARE CLEAR. What difference does that make? A carrier or affected dog can react to ivermectin, used for heartworm prevention. They can also react to anesthesia as well as a multitude of other commonly used veterinary medicine. With all dogs clear, all pups are clear. You can assure your veterinarian that if your pup does react to something, it is not due to mdr1 and that all heartworm preventative should be safe for your dog.
NOTE: some of the newer included DNA test i am not doing as they are not proving statistically sound.
Border collie gluacoma. The dna test is finding something that those that have glaucoma also have. However, the inverse is not true. The biggest majority that test as affected never show any signs of glaucoma nor do they fail a genoscopy exam. Per the BCSA website, only 1 border, out of over 25k examined from 1991 to 2015, had gluacoma yet it is estimated 2.3% will test affected by the current test. Thus, per this article, they suggest we test, if we have had gluacoma, but not reduce the gene pool otherwise.. If your puppy test affectedby this DNA test, have regular eye exams, but do not be concerned about gluacoma.
EOAD-early onset adult deafness-is another new DNA test finding a high percentage of affected dogs. However the test is finding a set markars "thought" to be connected to the gene responsible.. i can not find similar studies on EOAD like there is to the above, its too new. But ABCA has a position similar to the above as follows:
At birth each puppy is weighed. The weight is then monitored at least twice a day to assure the puppy is gaining properly. Mom's milk is the best nutrition for them, but, as in human infants, sometimes more than mom can provide or different than mom provides is needed. If a puppy is not gaining, or gaining slower than it should, it will be supplemented with a puppy milk replacer. I use the powdered type and mix with pedialyte to provide extra electrolytes. This can be offered with a bottle if the puppy can and will nurse or can be given with a tube into the stomach if necessary.
The first few weeks, milk is all the puppy will need. Each litter is different but between 3 and 4 weeks, the puppies get teeth and start wanting more to eat. This is usually related to how rich mom's milk is as to when they start wanting something more. I leave dry food with a nursing mom at all times and usually the puppies find it and start crunching away If the litter has gained slowly, or if I notice them trying to get moms food but the teeth aren't in yet, I'll introduce soft food a couple of times a day and gradually switch to all dry as teeth cut thru. By 4-5 weeks, they are always on dry food, which I leave with them at all times thru the time they leave.
Border collies are active busy dogs. I strongly recommend a high protein food at minimum. I feed Diamond High Energy dog food to adults and Purina proplan all life stages to pregnant girls, nursing moms and pups. Diamond is not the most expensive food, nor the cheapest, but it provides a good and nutritious meal. I've used it many years.
I will provide a gallon zip bag of the Purina with each puppy. You can continue with it or mix with your food of choice to transition so the puppy's digestive system isn't shocked with a sudden food change. Both Tractor Supply and Chewy carry Diamond High Energy and it comes only in 50 lb bags. Many place carry the Purina Proplan Sport All Life Stages. Each dog is different and as they grow, may develop a need for a different food. Follow your vets recommendation on foods.
As they get older, monitor their weight by body fat. If you can feel the back bone, they probably are not fat. If you can't, they definitely are. Feeling a few ribs is OK, but never hip bones. Keep them lean when growing to prevent hip and joint damage from excess weight.
Of course I also leave water with them at all times as well. We have well water so if you are on city water, they are not used to chlorine or fluorine. It would be best if you use bottled water at first and after establishing their food, then switch gradually to your tap water.
If it is not possible to leave dry food out for him, I suggest placing the food in his crate, placing him in it for naps or for about half an hour several times a day, remove the puppy (go straight out side!) and close the door. I'd try this 3-4 times a day to start. He will learn quickly, that is the time to eat. If crating over night (which I do strongly recommend), you can leave the food in the cage. Or if you prefer for them to learn to eat when given food, leave food in the crate with them, wait 30 minutes to an hour and remove any remaining food. Usually, within a few days, they learn to not fool around and to eat when it is offered. It will not hurt them to miss a meal so that they to learn to eat when it is offered. They will not go too long without eating.
Some can get very picky, very quickly, ESPECIALLY if you change food every time they stop eating. If they are hungry, they will eat. Only time I cater to one not eating is if 1) they are sick, extremely underweight, nursing, etc or 2)I'm showing them and they really need weight for the ring. Usually, the most I need to do is mix food with chicken broth or a little canned food. If you use too much can food too quickly, it can easily cause diarrhea.
Treats should be limited to no more than 10% of the dogs daily calories. Don't worry with weighing and calculating but estimate. Total calories in dogs, especially pups, must be controlled to prevent obesity which is very hard on a dog's joints. One option, to aid in training without overfeeding, is to train right before dinner time. Measure out his dinner kibble, and use it piece at a time as the reward. You can also use fruits and vegetables for treats. I give puppies the watermelon rhine and they love it. Many love cold carrots. Start early with healthy treats. But check safety first.
Be very cautious of table food treats. Many can cause pancreatitis. (And from someone who has had pancreatitis, it's extremely painful and can be deadly). Even a treat your dog eats regularly can suddenly become toxic. In today's word of Google, check before giving even if it's something they have had before.
Puppies and dogs should never be allowed to ride loose in a car. Just like a child, they become a projectile in an accident. Also, even the most stable dog, can become disoriented in an accident and bolt. This can lead to the dog being hit in traffic or running away in fear to hide. At a minimum, fasten his lead to a seat belt with him haltered. Crating, especially using crates designed to withstand an accident is the safest method.
Your puppy has been in a crate before so it's not totally new. Although they may fuss for a short time, if ignored, they will stop fussing, usually within 30 minutes. At home, leave his water in the crate so he acclimated as he comes and goes. You can leave his food in the crate or offer food only when in the crate with the door closed. Thus, his food and water are being used to make a crate a favored place. If using a wire crate, I suggest covering it. If the pup is quiet, you can lift the front. If he is fussing, close it. He will learn. Some folks provide a bone or a peanut butter filled kong that's been frozen at night as a crate treat. Be sure to monitor weight if doing this and allow for the extra calories in peanut butter. If noisy in the crate, remove the treat but not the pup. Never, let him out while fussing. He then learns that fussing doesn't release him. Only exception is if he has been napping and first wakes up, he needs to go potty. But if nothing happens outside, return him to the crate. If he goes, reward him. Do not line his crate with potty pads. They have an additive to draw puppies to potty. If using a large crate, you can put a blanket on one end and potty pad on the other.
As infants, they are on hay for bedding. Initially mom cleans and stimulates them to potty. As they grow, they begin going naturally on their own and the hay gets soiled. When I remove them from the whelping bed, I put hay down on the kennel floor. There is a doggie door in each run so they can go outside. After about a week of hay on the floor, I throw some of the soiled hay outside and clean the entire floor. They then will go outdoors seaking the soiled hay to potty. Thus, they naturally transition from pottying in the whelping bed, to the floor and then the favored response, outside while staying clean inside.
One of the easiest ways to potty train at home, is using a bell hung on the door that you use for outside trips. Hang the bell on a string at nose or paw level. Every trip out, stop and use his nose or paw to ring the bell. Usually within a week, he learns that ringing the bell gets the door open. He may ring it just because he sees the cat and wants him inside, (yes, we had one do that) or to go outside to play but knowing the bell gets the door open is the start. Then he will begin transitioning to ring the bell to potty outside. Again, treat if he goes, put him back in the crate if he does not.
98% of all puppies are born with worms and worm eggs already in their body. Then, even mom can continue to pass eggs to the babies in her milk. Eggs in their body will continue to hatch under stressful situations. As a pup, many things can cause stress until they get a bit older and their body strengthens. Changing homes is very stressful for a puppy and because of eggs hatching under stress, I will send a round of fenbendazole home with a puppy, usually for five days. It is given by mouth at 1 cc/4.5 lbs. In dry weather, Guardia is less likely, and I may send only 3 days. But, this does not mean he will stay worm free. The cycle will continue especially until you start heartworm preventatives that contain pyrantel, which is a wormer and his body matures and strengthens enough. Most recommendations are to continue worming every 2 weeks until 12 weeks, then every 3 months. Some veterinary sites recommend worming monthly from 12 weeks to 6 months and for puppies raised in a kennel, especially in the south, I too recommend this. Again, ask your vet what he recommends. Most worm meds are OTC and can be bought much cheaper than what a vet will charge you. If you need help finding them, let me know.
I worm weekly beginning at 2 weeks. In general, with in a few days, I treat using the following schedule. It may vary slightly if pups are showing any issues.
Coccidea is very dangerous left untreated. I was surprised at what all can carry and transmit coccidea but the major contributors are birds. (Plus rabbits, flies, roaches, etc). If you have chickens, ducks and other fowl, treat your puppy regularly. Most vets use an antibiotic that slows the reproduction but does not kill it. Toltraxuril is proven to kill it in one dose. If you are in an environment where a puppy can be re-exposed, I strongly recommend a weekly treatment with toltrazuril.
Puppies acquire immunity from common canine diseases thru the mom's milk. Each pup loses this immunity at different rates after weaning and the vaccine doesn't work until it has lost mom's immunity. Thus a series of vaccines are given to assure immunity is returned at the point they lose what mom gives them. I give the first vaccine at about 7 weeks, then if still at Omegamtn, another at 3-4 weeks later. I use what is referred to as a 5 way, a DHPPv usually from Nobivac. As adults I give a DHLPPv that includes lepto and corona but so many pups have an allergic reaction to the lepto that few vets will administer to a puppy.
Follow your veterinarians recommendations for all parasites both internal and external, as well as continued vaccine schedule. As not all vets follow the latest veterinary college recommendations, do not hesitate to discuss concerns with me.
I raise litters using ENS (early neurological stimulation) and a modified, expanded puppy culture. I say modified and expanded because after 40+ years, there are things I've found that work plus border collies can go into so many environments, I want to expose them to as many things as possible. COVID has made it tough for early socializing as normally every puppy visits a nursing home. We do have neighbor children come play with them, I move them around to various parts of the kennel for at least some exposure to new locations as well as the house. We have lots of learning activities for stimulation including a ball pit, steps, wobble boards, a bouncing singing ball and small agility equipment. I also use a plastic bag on a fishing pole to simulate coursing events. They get exposed to hay bales for climbing and visit with the rats (barn hunt). The neighbors ride 4 wheelers and we mow with a tractor.
Socializing is critical. Learn places that allow dogs. Lowes, Pet Smart, Home Depot, Bass Pro Shop, Cabelas, Tractor Supply. If your pup is shy or unsure of new places, take him frequently. Take favorite treats and have strangers give the treats. They begin associating new places and strangers with yummy treats and lose the fear. If they are stressed, keep trying but DO NOT CUDDLE AND SAY "ITS OK!" if behavior in barking, growling, etc. That behavior is not ok and must be corrected. It's better to remove them than to allow negative behavior. There are many books on handling different behaviors but any aggressive behavior must be stopped.
Border collies are remarkably intelligent. They can learn good and bad habits just as easily. One of the most stunningly memorable comments I read is that a border collie will test to see if you are a sheep or the shepherd. If you are a sheep, he will become the leader and easily develope horrible habits. A buyer recently told me, he wants the pup to look to him as a protector (the shepard.) That's superb. Its ok to protect,, console but not bad behavior. DO NOT TAKE YOU PUPPY TO DOG PARKS FOR MULTIPLE REASINS. If he is bullied, or feels intimidated, he will learn to bully back in self defence. That can and will lead to aggressive behavior anytime the dog is stressed. Watch body language anytime another dig is around and remove the dog before a fight occurs or before they get beat up. Look to the end of this section for more reasons and places to try. While its okay to console or comfort your dog when scared or distressed, again I say, do not tell them "its ok" if they are barking, snapping, growling, snarling, etc. That behavior is NOT OK and needs to be stopped. Remove them from the stimulus. If behavior continues, it must be corrected. A trainer may be necessary if you cannot handle it alone. Do not expect them to understand sharing and putting them into a situation where they feel competition for food or other necessities is unfair.. Especially watch intact males if you have a female in heat. Females may also react when in heat.
It's by far better to train with positive methods. Reward for success. But sometimes correction is needed. Be firm, consistent, and correct bad behavior. Do not allow them to nip, growl or chase uncorrected as a pup. Chasing your ankles and nipping your pants may be cute as a pup, BUT, it leads to nipping at others that pass by. I will tug, even growl with them, then stop, tell them "enough" or "stop" and treat for stopping. If they do not stop, correct them gently then get firmer until they comply. I do not hit or use a shock collar but will pick up the pup, hold a muzzle, flick a nose, use rolled newspaper and a firm NO, LEAVE IT, STOP, ENOUGH what ever come natural to you so the dog learns consistently when it is being corrected. They will learn your tone as much as words but if you are inconsistent, results will be inconsistent or nonexistent.
Clicker training is an excellent positive training method. When kept busy learning positive things, there is less time and interest for bad behavior. Plus it helps build confidence.
You would not show up at an agility or obedience competition without first preparing, training, practicing, and the same must be true for conformation. I sell with full registration for now so you can try showing. But that will change if untrained dogs continue to show up at shows. It looks easy on TV but those dogs are shown 200+ times a year and know what to do and what happens in the ring. Attend conformation classes to learn what and how to do, and to prepare the dog for strangers touching and examining them. Some, but not many, can step straight into the ring without training. Don't chance it. Your dog could react to you being nervous and bite. Find a kennel club near you and call, to see what they recommend.
Teach your pup to walk on lead with a flat or choke collar. Do not allow them to lunge and pull on the lead. Halters work for very young but don't lean on that. I suggest a choke collar first choice. They will not like it and may buck and pull at first, but it's a learning process. Use the choke with small snaps, not constant pulling. Again, ask for help or attend classes with a trainer. Pet smart type classes are fine for puppy training but insist on them showing you how to use a choke or find trainers that do.
A great summary of critical times in puppy development is listed below in links.. it gives you an idea of different temperament phases the puppy may go thru.
MORE ON DOG PARKS
Dog parks are the worst thing for your dog on multiple levels.
1. Not all communicable diseases are given a vaccination routinely. If something is spreading, like dog flue did a few years ago, pets are the last to get the vaccine. Even many show dogs died from that.
2. Parasites. Most flea meds work by killing the flea AFTER biting. Even then, if your dog digs at the bite, eats the flea, he gets tape worms and routine worming WILL NOT kill those. It could be months before you know he has them.
3. Behavior. Very few dogs will turn away from another dog that is abusive/agressive. Your dog has now learned to be the aggressor to protect itself. THAT, is the worst part of a dog park. But the same is true about any other dig that you di not know. Strange dogs should NEVER be turned loose together. If they get beat up by another dig, then on subsequent contact with another dog or person and they exhibit aggressive behavior, I would strongly suggest, you find a trainer ASAP, to help you teach your dog, that not all dogs are aggressive or you may wind up with a dog that stays in self defense mode and now lunges at every dog or person he perceiveds a threat, The same aggression can occur when the dog is taken to a groomer who muzzles them doing toenails.. The dog learns to lung at the person, who allows it because the muzzle protects them. That is why I advocate strongly, you learn to do this yourself.,
I recommend you keep nails trimmed yourself or at least watch them being done and learn. Some groomers muzzle to prevent being bit. DON'T ALLOW THIS. If the dog is reacting during this time, nothing corrects it. They learn to bite out without correction and become foot sensitive when the nail is cut too short and they are defenseless. Start young touching and handling feet regularly. I trim toe nails early so when they leave, it's being done and that needs to continue. Continue this practice while they are young and you can make them behave. We had one colt while we had horses. We were told to pick him up while he was small and as he grew, he would not realize he was to big for us to continue. Making you puppy hold still for nails, brushing, etc is the same way. At 2 months old, you can and must make him hold still for basic grooming, then he will do so when he is bigger and stronger. It's much better if you learn to do it yourself, especially if you want to show. Ask if you want to learn how.
Brush your pup often. Again, reward for good behavior and do not allow him to bite at the brush or comb. You can make it a game. Same thing Is true of a blow dryer. Use it on them from a young age. Stop on success, not if they misbehave.
If you plan to show, invest in a grooming table and accustom your pup to being on it. A pup can be blown dry with a hand held blow dryer and is ok to start with them in your lap if you wish, but they should quickly transition to being on the table. As the coat fills in, it will be necessary to use a forced air dryer.
Grooming is not something you will learn overnight. But everyone starts somewhere. I usually use dilute Dawn dish detergent to bath them. In addition to being inexpensive, it is gentle (and used for oil removal on wildlife) and will kill fleas. Again I recommend blowing dry, even just for practice. Trim the long hair on the bottom of the feet and trim around the foot. Each of these steps, will prepare your dog for a less stressed exposure even if you take him to a groomer.
If you are going to show or if you prefer ears that go up and tip, it may be necessary to glue the ears. I can do this before they leave and provide a video of how to keep them glued. Some will set by 4 months, some may need to be glued until 6-8 months.
All of our puppies are AKC registered and currently are sold with full registration and full ownership. Effective 2021, i will register all puppies in order to obtain breeder of merit staus. All will use the Omegamtn kennel name andbe registeted to one owner. If you wish to put a co-owner, this can be done online after receiving your registration from AKC. I will have a possible registered name available for your puppy but will change that if you wish as long as omegamtn remains in the name. Please plan ahead if you want another name so papers can be provided in a timely manner.
Occationally, a litter may be dual registered with UKC. That registered name will be the same as the AKC name.
"Critical Periods In Puppy Development "